Riding Elephants in Pai

BLATTS in THAILAND

The only notable moment of the morning was the appearance of an unidentifiable animal poop in the pool.  But let's not get into that.  Let's talk about ELEPHANTS!

Benji looked like an ant standing next to the towering elephant.  She snaked her trunk around him for a hug, startling the redness into his cheeks.

Riding elephants in Thailand with our ten year old twins is one of those unique opportunities that we just couldn't pass up.    So, for 700 baht per person (about $25) we signed up with Thom's Elephant Camp for a two hour ride.  Looking at those behemoth creatures from below, the theme from Gilligan's island began to play ominously in my head.  "A three hour tour...."     okay, it's one hour less, but two hours on that giant?  What were we thinking?!

Well, we had little time to be apprehensive.  Within moments, Steve had climbed onto the back of the tallest elephant I'd ever seen.  Benji grabbed the harness rope and pulled himself up onto the blanket on the elephant's back, scooting to sit between Steve's straddled legs.  

The elephant guide sat on her (the elephant's) head, telling Steve the elephant's name is Movie Star.  Off they walked without ceremony.  What?!  That's it?!  No preparation?  No elephant riding lesson?  A guide gestured impatiently to Marina and me, as we stood open-mouthed with anxiety.  Okay, only one of us was freaking out.  Okay, it was me.  "Come on Mom, " Marina prodded.  "Let's get on our elephant."

I grappled my way up the elephant's back.  Her name was Pompem ---  Thai for Problem.  Not a good sign!~ Marina scrabble up in front of me in a second.  Äwesome!" she assessed.

Alright.  I'll admit it.  I was terrified.  We were perched on top of an elephant, twenty feet in the air.  I gripped the harness rope with white knuckles as we lumbered off, loping into the jungle.  My hands were sweating and my legs were shaking.  Ï''m scared," I whispered to Marina.  ""Äre you?""

"You're gonna be okay, Mom.  Just relax and enjoy it.  It's fun!"  She patted me on the leg with her free hand.  With her other hand, she casually petted the elephant's rough back and wiry hairs. 

Ahead of us, Movie Star had a plan of her own.  She walked off the track, munching leaves here and there.  Her Mahut- her trainer- whacked her hard on the forehead with the blunt end of an elephant hook.  We gasped, mortified.  The Mahut told Steve in Thai that it feels only like a toothpick to her heavy skull.  We pretended to believe it, but all of us were somewhat sickened by the brutality. 

We left Movie Star and her wayward antics behind. Marina and I gained a considerable lead, and with time, I relaxed on Pompem's back.  The landscape was gorgeous -- verdant hillsides and tall grasses planted everywhere for the elephants to eat.  In front of me, Marina pointed out the textures of the elephant's skin, her rubbery ears, her balanced gait.  We rode up the mountain in silence, gently rocking with the rhythm of Pompem's swaying steps.

Downhill was more of a challenge.  I slid forward, squishing Marina with my weight, trying to clutch my harness rope to keep my balance without crushing Marina. 

Our Mahut patted the elephant's neck, and without a word, Marina slid forward to Pompem's broad neck, gently holding the top of her head.  "Äh, much better," my little jungle girl said. Benji and Steve had caught up a bit.  I noticed Benji also clinging to his elephant's broad head, her enormous ears flapping against his skinny legs. 

Marina looked like an Egyptian queen at the helm of her elephant as we lumbered toward the brown river.  Then, Pompem expertly and gracefully lowered herself into the river until she was belly deep.  Then lifting her trunk unexpectedly, she showered us with a sudden spray from the river.  Marina and I giggled and I slid off the elephant's back to play in the warm river.  Marina's paddle board experience payed off, as she balanced and stood on the elephant's back,and then climed up to pose on the tip of her forehead!

Meanwhile, the boys had stripped off their shirts and tossed the elephant blanket on the shoreline.  Movie Star trudged happily into the water, and , without warning, shook her surprised cargo into the water.  The elephants seemed content resting in the water, as were we, playing and cooling off with these amazing, huge, intelligent creatures.

Finally, as we trotted back to camp bareback on the elephants, I looked at Marina perched comfortably on Pompem's neck.  "Well, riding an elephant sure is a once in a lifetime adventure!" I said.

"Oh, no, Mom.  I'm definitely doing this again.  Maybe a couple more times....when I'm older, of course!"

-Ilana Long